When I first rented a house here in the Languedoc it had a bicycle in the hall. I thought I would give it a try, and found it very enjoyable. However the frame of that bicycle was not really man enough for my frame, and furthermore it only had three gears which is apparently about eighteen less than any self- respecting cyclist has these days. So my friend Rupert Wright, who is a serious cyclist, took me off to Decathlon, the sort of hypermarket that I have resolutely steered clear of in the past, which sells every imaginable type of sporting kit, and much that is unimaginable.
I had no desire to have a “racing” bike favoured by most Frenchmen, neither did I want a VTT, ”mountain bike” to you and I. Something in between would be fine and Decathlon had just the thing, a sturdy gold machine with twenty-one gears. I also bought the least obtrusive bone dome, and a lurid yellow jacket, but drew the line at those lycra skintight suits, as my skin is no longer tight, but flows unctuously over the accretions of time and overindulgence. Despite the wonders of modern fibre technology, I felt certain that looking like the Michelin man would ensure ridicule, and the prospect of getting in and out of it was not something I wished to contemplate. Tucking my ordinary trousers into my socks in a typically British fashion would suffice. Fortunately, in France, the sight of a fat old man in a silver helmet and bright yellow top causes not a moment’s ridicule or surprise. Everyone of all sexes, shapes and ages has bicycles here, and therefore strange sights are no cause for comment. Furthermore, while courtesy is a rare commodity on the roads in France, it is almost unfailingly extended to cyclists.
I also bought a jell-filled saddle in the belief that the jell would be kinder on the ancient derrière. However this jell bore a huge affinity with solid concrete, so I returned a week later and bought a jell-filled saddle cover which made the pressure on the coccyx slightly more bearable.
Thus equipped I set out on my first ride. In my cycling days, almost Biblical times in my daughter’s view, when changing gear, one stopped pedalling for a moment. Now one just continues. Things have moved on since then, as Rupert kindly pointed out. That may be, but I haven’t.
Once one has the hang of the gears almost any hill is climbable, providing one’s lungs and limbs are up to it, which, of course, quite frequently they are not. However, where is it written that hills have to be taken without a moment or two to admire the view, and at the same time discretely contemplate whether cardiac arrest is imminent or not? Furthermore, I have found that a judicious pre-ride consultation of a large scale map will almost always allow one to reach one’s destination by a route that excludes those contour lines that are close together, signifying steep hills, or at least they did when I was in the Cadet Force, and that hasn’t changed. I have also found with hills that it is better not to look all the way to the summit and think what a long way off it looks, but rather to look down to the road immediately in front and think of other things apart from the pain in one’s legs and the inadequacy of one’s lungs. Contemplation, for example, of the number of calories melting away, or the prospect of that unopened bottle of wine that will put them all back again, somehow makes the kilometres flow by.
There is an unwritten etiquette about cycling here. If meeting another cyclist along the lanes, one greets them with a friendly “Bonjour” or “Salut”, and one certainly does so if one overtakes a fellow cyclist, not of course that I have had any experience of this manoeuvre.
And what a delight it is to reach home! Blood returns to the nether regions, and the sense of achievement is huge.
Chuntering through the lanes of the Hérault with a big blue sky above and the vines on either side promising endless evenings of vinous pleasure is about as good as it gets for a clinically obese geriatric!